Fashion on House of Cards Clarie
Beware Claire's flair.
During her half-dozen seasons on "House of Cards," Claire Underwood'southward ruthless ambition manifests not simply in her political power plays, but through intentional shifts in the character's wardrobe, says series costume designer Kemal Harris.
"She does this visual manipulation where she has this quiet sensuality about her," Harris says of Claire, played by Aureate Globe winner Robin Wright. "She uses that equally a tool, to become the best and worst out of people."
In the show'due south final flavour, released Friday on Netflix, fans become to run across Claire in full Madam President mode, turned out in sharp dress suits conforming the most powerful person in the globe. The buttoned-upwardly, stretchy wool-crepe attire often embraces an appropriate "presidential bluish," Harris says, conveying the regal seriousness of a armed services commander set up for war. That marks a stark contrast to Claire's early days every bit power-hungry striver nurturing the ambitions of husband Francis Underwood (Kevin Spacey).
"In Seasons i and 2, Francis was the political social climber; Claire was helping him behind the scenes," says Harris, who joined the evidence in Flavor three. At the time, Claire'southward closet was filled with understated looks from designers such every bit Armani, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. "She wasn't too flashy," Harris says. "She wasn't quite in full White House wheeling-and-dealing mode notwithstanding."
Things took a plough in Season 3, when Claire began her official duties as first lady. To signal this shift, Harris took style cues from screen legends such equally Katharine Hepburn and Lauren Bacall. "They're very confident and always [seemed] to be in control of their careers and characters," she says. Claire also broke from her usual muted palette with pieces in jade green and burgundy. "For once in her life, Claire actually got to be a petty scrap fabled and enjoy her way," Harris says.
The graphic symbol'south style story deepened further in Season 4, when Claire returned to her family'south Texas ranch to run for Congress (and lock horns with her Francis-hating mother). "Nosotros actually see her break down and cry. Similar, whoa — Claire has feelings!" Harris says. The emotional mood is reflected in Claire's "browns, tweed fabrics, a leather riding kicking — things that were reminiscent of her childhood."
When campaigning for vice president as her hubby's running mate, Claire was back in business organisation for Season 5. Harris embellished Claire'due south ensembles with "military details" such as large golden buttons — besides a nod to Claire's desire to be commander in main herself. "Claire was the epitome of that phrase, 'Wearing apparel for the job y'all want,'" Harris says. (Spacey was fired from the testify before Season 6 began filming, following allegations of sexual venial. His graphic symbol was killed off-camera.)
In the last season, Claire is in the Oval Office, rocking a wardrobe that's roughly 80 pct custom-made using a mannequin built to Wright's exact measurements, Harris says. The precise tailoring isn't haute-y, though; the vibe is "utilitarian," with higher cervix lines and longer sleeves than in past seasons. She now too has custom presidential gage links and sports a edgeless, sleek bob.
Only, rest bodacious, not everything has changed.
"We continued with Claire'due south well-tailored, immaculate style," Harris says, "and the wicked blackness patent Christian Louboutin heels Claire is known for."
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