A touch of southern sensibility kicked off New York Fashion Week Men'southward A/Westward 2017 in the cellar of The Beekman Hotel, every bit Billy Reid brought the famous Shindig festival he holds each summer in Florence, Alabama, to New York City. The designer'south A/W 2017 drove was every bit as much a portrait of his ain life; his friends – like model Karen Elson and player Alex Precipitous – starred in the evidence, which was marked past the Beat out inspiration he garnered from an exhibition at the Eye Pompidou. Quilted corduroy jackets, plaid sport coats and cashmere turtlenecks exuded the coincidental-absurd vibe that makes up the brand's Deoxyribonucleic acid.

At Garciavelez, the artwork of Gordon Matta-Clark influenced the intersecting geometries of the collection's pieces. A grid print on a nylon raincoat was juxtaposed confronting a custom embroidered hoodie. The grid reappeared on a pair of sweatpants, but with an overlapping floral impress for an element of softness.

The grid-prints in Garciavelez's A/W 2017 drove took inspiration from Gordon Matta-Clark

At Ovadia & Sons, twin brothers Ariel and Shimon Ovadia looked to their babyhood in State of israel equally inspiration, placing Hebrew phrases on football shirts and menorah patches on bomber jackets. Patterns and fabrics were bold and varied; trousers were imagined in camouflage and velvet, and teamed with scissored leopard impress knit scarves and silk jacquard coats.

That evening, Due north Hoolywood'due south Daisuke Obana practical the 'look' of homeless people beyond the United States to a series of heavy, layered garments, hanging knitwear scarves over puffer jackets and mesomorphic sweaters.

Presenting its first runway show in a decade, Dominate took inspiration from its own tailoring heritage and the idea of the modern traveller

The German fashion behemothic Boss presented its commencement men's track show in a decade at Skylight Modern. Chief brand officeholder Ingo Wilts had the modern traveller in mind, incorporating Boss's suiting heritage from the 1980s and 90s. Wilts played with proportions, slimming the silhouettes for a more contemporary approach. Large ring attachment accents adorned shirting and knit turtlenecks. The collection's outerwear was amongst its strengths; shearling embellished leather jackets and parkas had an artful appendage to them, with large pockets on the back that could carry travel documents, or a newspaper.

Patrik Ervell likewise looked to the 90s for A/West 2017, with a drove inspired past the early rave scene. Turtlenecks, indigestible jackets and straight-leg trousers were paired with the athletic Starter parkas that dominated U.s.a. during that decade. A moving ridge of soft pink – on a parka, coat and vest – complemented the drove's darker tones.

Kenneth Ning fused engineering science with fashion through a live runway that was projected on to a giant screen. For the Gordon Gekko-inspired collection he used stock market numbers as the backdrop for a filmed fashion bear witness, reimagining traditional tailoring with widened sleeves, and pairing a knee-length orange sweater over a white collared shirt.

Raf Simons made his debut as role of the New York Fashion Week Men'due south schedule

Raf Simons' New York debut took place that night at the Gagosian's 21st Street location, his eponymous make's first stateside outing ahead of his inaugural collection for Calvin Klein. The first await featured an exquisitely tailored, knee-length tuxedo coat, cinched at the waist with the words 'Walk With Me' in gaffer tape, and paved the way for a number of structured outerwear pieces.

Simons' ode to New York, an oversized sweater with exaggerated sleeves and the Milton Glaser-inspired 'NY' initials, demonstrated the designer's enthusiasm for his new dwelling house, despite America's unsettling political climate. The rest of the knitwear was specially strong, referencing the designer's fascination with youth culture through slouchy striped sweaters with breast pocket accents. Utilitarian influences were likewise seen in the drove, in a long workwear-inspired shirt and trousers, a more than masculine contrast to the fitted vests and beaded necklaces. If Simons' offset New York collection is any indication of what's to come, then things are looking good.

Bode, the characterization by New York-based Emily Bode, created a Cape Cod-inspired habitation for the backdrop for its A/Westward 2017 presentation, decorated with vases of lilies and colourful checked pillows. Pyjama-style suiting, shirts and loose jackets were created using vintage fabrics, artfully quilted into checked and geometric constructions.

Emily Bode creates emotive patchwork designs using antique fabrics

Willy Chavarria took on a political approach, looking towards Chicano manner and the Black Power movement. The presentation began with the models enclosed in a chain link muzzle, a symbol of oppression, before they were allow loose. The designer placed various messages – 'Savour Kindness' and 'Capitalism is Heartless' – in the collection, placing them among the baggy athletic dress-inspired shirts.

Farther east, Orley, the label founded by Matthew, Alex and Samantha Orley, took its style cues from the late folk musician Nick Drake. Fine Italian wool and Loro Piana yarns were used in striped suiting and archetype knit polos, a signature item for the line. The designers, who won the Swarovski Accolade for Menswear in 2016, placed unusual marbled, matte stones onto the shoulders and fronts of sweaters. They also reimagined the bomber, giving it more of a 70s feel.

Back at Skylight Clarkson Square, General Idea's Bumsuk Choi unveiled a oversupply-pleasing collection – a burgundy bomber with a contrasting black turtleneck was a refreshing new riff on the shape, and eyelets, buttons and zippers made for interesting detailing. The oversized proportions were balanced without being besides overbearing.

Then came the finale – veteran designer John Varvatos rented out the nightclub/theatre Diamond Horseshoe for a Wild at Eye–themed collection that involved the rebellious, rock-and-curlicue look of the brand. Leopard print was a dominant theme on motorbike jackets, coats and blazers. Lacing item finished off the skinny trousers. The silhouettes were slim and fitted, appropriate for a hip indie band on the road.